19 April - Ypres/Ieper, Belgium

We started with a very good plan!

But the plan was derailed by an excellent, amazing, wonderful museum. 
(Yes, I did write 'museum'!)

The 'In Flanders Field' Museum is in the Lakenhalle building of Ieper (sometimes spelled Ypres).  The museum is not large but the exhibits are interesting and engaging.  Interesting: a local group of battlefield archeologists recently found an Allied tunnel complex - they were able to salvage weapons, munitions and equipment.  some of it had been underwater but had not corroded that much in a 100 years; displays of what a soldier wore and carried - French, Commonwealth, Belgian and German; a special exhibit on the first uses of chlorine gas.  Engaging: throughout the museum were video stories, with actors role playing a wide range of characters - soldiers and officers of both sides, nurses and doctors, and civilians.  These role plays were very well done!

Lakenhalle

A Commonwealth soldier's kit... not all wore kilts of course!

In the original plan we had estimated a couple of hours for the museum.  That blew out to 4+ Hours when you include going up into the bell tower of Lakenhalle.  The view from the bell tower gave you a true sense of how much could be seen from higher ground... and why such ground became so important during the war. An odd thing happened while we were atop the tower:  another tourist tripped and fell, he hit his head pretty hard on the stone wall.  We hepled him to his feet and gave him some water. He was trembling and still in a low level of shock.  So we walked him down the 230+ stairs to his friends at the bottom.  Why odd? He was from Germany.  Having been through the museum... it was just seemed odd but right to help him.

The view rom the bell tower.

Stan checks out the view.

After the now usual 'late lunch' we walked to the Menin Gate which was only 300 metres from Lakenhalle.  This is the famed (or infamous) gate through which hundreds of thousands of allied soldiers marched.  Many were never to return (as portrayed in William Longstaff painting).

Menin Gate: Almost 60,000 names of Commonwealth soldiers who have no known burial place are listed on the gate's walls.

The Seabrook Brothers (17th Ban AIF): these two brothers were killed by the one shell. There younger brother, serving in the same battalion, was shot later that day. He was evacuated to an aid post where he later died. For Mrs Seabrook, she lost her three boys within a 24+ hour period.  How do you even begin to deal with such grief.

By this time we decided that we would stay in Ieper and see other sights rather than rush through our original plan.  One of the key events that we had planned on doing was to witness the Ieper Buglers playing the Last Post under the Menin Gate.  The Firemen of Ieper having been paying this tribute to the fallen since July, 1928.  There was a brief period when it was not done (1939-45).

The other sites included a walk along the 17th century ramparts and a visit to the Ramparts Commonwealth War Cemetary.  There is something poignant about a war cemetary: the sameness of the white headstones, the youth of those interned, the lost futures and the grief of those left behind (so easily felt through the words chosen to mark their love one's grave).

A quiet walk back to the Ieper town center was next and a search for a dinner venue!  Then it was approaching 19:30 (7:30 pm), so time to move to the Gate for the ceremony.  There were quite a few people there, including a school group from Collie State High in WA.  They layed a wreath and said the ode. 

At20:00 the Buglers (four of them) played the Last Post and the sound reverbrated in the cavern of the gate (archway).  Apart for the lilting tune, you could of heard a pin drop (probably 300-400 people were in attendance).  Lest we forget!

The Buglers at 2000 Hours.

Lastly, a nice drive through the countryside to our hotel in Bailleuel and the day was done.