Vaticano!

Brekky and then on the bus.

Look, the colisseum! (again)

Arrived at the Vatican.  There were 10s of thousands of people.  100s of hawkers and 10s of stores selling items of worship.  This is BIG business.

One of the hawkers approached us with a unique offer.  We could buy a special ticket that would allow us to 'skip the queue'.  The queue was estimated as a three hour wait!!

We immediately thought it was a scam but we weren't that committed to wait 3 hours.  We soon discovered our unique opportunity was not that unique.  We reduced the wait to about 45 minutes, picked up a guide and some Americans for our skip the queue group.

We entered via the Vatican Museum (could also be considered the Vatican treasures that they are prepared to show...  billions of dollars worth of art and artifacts.  Amazing!).  The people crush was phenomenal.  It was worse than any people crush I had experienced.  Scary Christian zealots fighting (almost literally) their way to the Sistine Chapel!  It is ironic that people should be rude and aggressive because they want to visit a 'holy place'.

We eventually surged our way to the Sistine Chapel.  Wow! Michelangelo was a fantastic artist on a large scale!  The story told by the art would have been more moving if not for people pushing, shoving and trying to sneak photograhs (yes, it is a 'no photographs' location and the attendants are frequently saying 'no photo').  One enterprising lass had her friends form a circle around her while she dropped to her knees and snapped a few pics with her iPhone. The attendants had no chance of seeing her or stopping her. 

After we escaped the crush we moved towards St Peter's Basilica.  Of course, there were places to buy holy objects/relics and gifts (mostly made by Confuscianists in China!).  These places were strategically located to create further traffic chaos. At least there was more room in Pete's Church.  In fact there was an incredible amount of room.  It was huge!  Apparently this is Church Numero Uno and it had all the gold, art, symbology, space... whatever!  St Pete is buried 140m below (according to Dan Brown).  After wandering around the grand space, we decided it was time to go back out with the ordinary folks.  The queue outside was still there (and this was some 3 hours after we first arrived).  The folks in the queue would probably make the front door about 5 minutes before closing.  Got to love that sort of faith!

Apparently, about 5,000,000 folks visit the Vatican annually.  'They' would cram in more if they could!  This is a multi-million dollar business. And yet, no help from the Vatican for the people of Nepal!  Just saying, you know...!!

We grabbed a bite to eat and decided to walk back to the hotel.  Great idea for the first 10 minutes and then it teemed down (I was always thought it was going to be thunderbolts and lightning if I went into a church... maybe I am not such a bad person!).  It rained for the entire walk back to the hotel.  There was an upside (see Karen's not the only optimist)... we got to see the Trevi Fountain working (sort of!).

Our last night in Rome.  A simple meal and a rest before the journey home and a return to normality.
Photos to follow - we have checked out and are sitting in the hotel's dining room. Just got some time to check out a couple more landmarks before we catch the train to the airport.

Day 24 and 25

26 April - Moving Day (Again)

Lock down in Paris till the bomb squad arrive and give the all clear

The Colosseum

Smart cars are very popular in Rome. This way of parking also popular.

The famous Trevi Fountain just down the road from our hotel. It is under going some extensive maintainence.It's all good as they have set up a small pond/pool to throw a coin in over your shoulder. It means you will return to Rome.

Frank's house earlier in the overcast day, the afternoon was rain.

Time to leave France and to visit Rome.

A bit of a sleep-in and time to re-organise the packing.  Then off to the airport for a two hour flight to Rome.

The wait at the airport was made a little exciting because someone left  their bag unattended. French security protocols worked very well.  We watched them cordon off the area (police and miltary), bomb squad was called in and the baggage was cleared.

Arrival in Rome required a couple of train trips to get to the hotel. For dinner we had ravioli and spaghetti. Followed by a gelati.  Very good!  and a bottle of Italian red.

27 April - Checking out Rome Day

We bought a couple of 'hop on, hop off' bus tickets.  This gave us the opportunity to take a casual drive around Rome: Coliseum, Circus Maximus, the Forum, Marcus Aurelius, Trevi Fountain and Frank's Place.  We bought a bottle of red to take to Frank's (we thought it common courtesy to at least bring something - couldn't find a box of Cadbury Favourites! Plus we had heard Franky is partial to a vino!).

Anyway, it was not to be!  It was raining fairly heavy and we decided against trudging through the rain and possibly damaging Frank's carpet.  Frank was probably disappointed!  Of course it was a selling opportunity for walking sales men, with umbrellas and ponchos. Even when you say no they keep following you in the hope for a sale.

French traffic is orderly, calm and logical when compared to Italian traffic.
What is it with Italians? They seem to have broken the volume control!!

For dinner, we had canneloni and lasagne.  For lunch we had pizza.  So we have now tried all the known Italian food groups.

We will pop in on and see Frank tomorrow.

Villers Bretonneux 2015
Centenary of the Gallipoli Landings

Australian National Memorial - Villers Bretonneux in the earlier hours

Volunteers from Villers Bretonneux and surrounds welcomed guests and assisted with seating.

We don't know why people did not recognise us!  front row of the cheap seats... how much easier could it have been!

Yes, it was cold, wet; there were thousands of us, all volunteers; we were well prepared!

 The sequence:

Early to bed (that was the plan but ... )

Out of bed at 12:30 am

Car loaded and on the road from Peronne at 1:00

Arrive Villers Bretonneux at 1:30.

Walk 1.2 km from VB to the Memorial. 10s of others doing likewise. The soft soles of sports shoes gently crunched the gravel path.  I wonder how much louder that 'crunch' would have been under hob-nailed boots.  There is only occasional chatter as peope stride deliberately to the glowing monument on the ridge.

Arrive at the Memorial just before 2:00am.  Others are there but not too many.  We proceed to claim our seats.  It is chilly but no rain.

Some time between 2 and 3 the first rain falls.  People scurry for wet weather gear.

Between 3 and 4 there is a break in the rain.  Hope looms large for finer weather.

4:30am hope of fine weather fades as rain grows more steady.

Pre-event entertainment begins. Singing of songs from 1914-18, patriotic songs and songs of hope.

Images of Diggers from the Great War are projected onto the surface of the Memorial.  The crowd looks up at these men and women who gave their lives, their limbs, their minds and their youth.  The rainfall overflows from the memorial.... it is like the tears of a nation unseen.

5:00 am-ish dignitaries start to take their seats.  Rain continues.

The VB service is to follow the Gallipoli service and is to be broadcast live to Australia.  There are some time delays.  Fortuitous because there appears to be a few technical difficulties... something about water and electricity!

Eventually the service begins.  Guards take place, bands play, choirs sings, prayers are read, speeches are given and wreaths are laid.  Yet, I am reminded of the words of Maya Angelou:

Maybe I am a tough critic.  But I just did not feel the connection and I am prone to do so!  I don't think it was the rain or cold.  The ingredients for the recipe for a moving, memorable tribute to the diggers were all there.  The ingredients were high quality but the blending of the ingredients did not create that feeling! Maybe our expectations were too high.

The service closed with additional laying of wreaths.  People dispersed quickly to buses or the walking path.  The last shreds of solemnity were crushed by efficient dispersal plans.

Having put my/our disappointment on the line: we are glad that we made the effort to be there. We have a new understanding of the enormity of loss brought through WW1 and an even more heightened respect for those Diggers of the Great War.  We have also experienced the generational gratitude of the French people.  Their respect for these soldiers of 100 years ago is simply phenomenal... Vive la France!!

The last word...

They went with songs to the battle, they were young,
Straight of limb, true of eyes, steady and aglow,
They were staunch to the end against odds uncounted,
They fell with their faces to the foe. 


They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them. 

Day 20 & 21

Day 20 in Cambrai and Surrounds

A leisurely start and off into the local coutryside in search of 'Deborah'.  Deborah is/was a British Mark IV tank that was destroyed in the battle of Cambrai (the first large scale tank offensive 476 allied tanks were involved). Deborah (officially tank D51) was knocked out of action by German artillery.  The British buried the tank, presumbably so the Germans could use what was left! 70+ years later and enthusiastic Frenchman went in search of D51... and found her! Voila!!  So Deborah was supposed to be housed in the town of Fesquieres (home town of said enthusiastic Frenchman).  We drove around a bit, we visited several Commonwealth cemetries, and we visited a Battle of Cambrai information site.

We were determined to find Deborah!.  We drove through all the streets of Flesquieres (of which there are about six... maybe seven at the outside).  Then we found the shed with a sign about Deb, we were close, real close.

But horror of horrors, the above said enthusiastic Frenchman has to maintain his day job and can only do 'show and tell' by appointment!! Buggar!  Anyway the search was a little fun.

We sat in the French countryside and had a snack... Baguette, ham and cheese... of course!

Cambrai - explained

Back into Cambrai and a bit of a look around.  Cambrai did not appears to suffer the levels of destruction that occurred elsewhere on the front.  It is a nice regional city with some ancient history.

Day 21 A Moving Day

Today we moved into the region known as the Somme.  On our way we visited some interesting sites around Arras.  Unlike Cambrai, Arras suffered total destruction.

We encountered another German war cemetary.  This was a little different to the others.  Crucifix grave markers indicated where four German soldiers were buried.  One of the twisted ironies was that some of the grave markers were not crosses.  These were where German Jewish soldiers were buried.

Neuville-St Vaast

We travelled onto the largest French war cemetary.  On home soil the French have built a fitting tribute to the 100's of thousands who died in the war.

French National War Cemetary

Next to the cemetary was a private museum.  The proprietor had made an effort to build trenchlines so people could experience what it would have been like.  It was good that he tried but it appeared the money and/or the enthusiam had dried up.  Sadly so, because the idea was brilliant.

Then into Arras, to find the Office of Tourism and get directions to the Carriere Wellington (Wellington Quarry).  This is a little known part of the war... under Arras during the 16/17th century limestone was mined.  The practice ceased for a hundred years and  a bright spark came up with the idea to surprise the Germans by hiding some soldiers and popping out and an inconvenient time. Most clever, here, here!

Anyway, some Kiwi Engineers (formerly coal/gold miners) took on the task of connecting the underground quarries.  They dug a large part of the 19 kilomentres of tunnels that connected the quarries.  Eventually the British were able 'hide' 24,000 troops in the tunnels and quarries.  In the Battle of Arras on 10 April 1917, the 24,000 soldiers did indeed pop out near Jerry and given a hell of a surprise.  Over half were killed or wounded for gains that were not consolidated or exploited.

Some of the Tunnel dug by the Kiwis

Then 'on the road again' to Villers Bretonneux.  We arrived in the evening, the sun was still blazing.
The Memorial at VB stands atop a ridge line.  It is a towering monument that can be seen from several kilometeres away.  I think we all got goosebumps... this was the goal of our travels, to be at VB on ANZAC Day.  Preparations were underway, some distracting (like media gear and chairs all laid out) and some was beautiful.  At each grave marker was an Australian flag, or a Union Jack, or a Canadian flag or the French rememberance flag (a blue poppy): for Australian soldiers, British soldiers, Canadian soldiers and 'Unknown Soldiers of the Great War'.

We then travelled into VB.  Wow, there were Australian flags everywhere, replica kangaroos, signs of welcome to Australians, a local restaurant offering a 'mixed grill' (you guessed it: lamb chops, sausages, bacon etc).  I don't think any Australian could have felt more welcomed!

Then to the hotel!  There is a speed bump story but I am not going to tell it!

Paying our Respects

Polygon Wood to .......
Zonnebeke
Tyne Cot
Langemark
Fromelle
Cambrai
This has been our day, we have travelled along some quiet single lane country roads then onto major highways. Today Neil was our driver and navigator was Peter. The boys do a fantastic job. The hardest part of my and Fiona's journey is looking out either the front or side windows. Well someone has too!!
We visited many of "our boys" today located in some very well maintained and dare I say picturesque cemeteries. The Commonwealth War Graves do a job that makes you very proud to be a part of the Commonwealth. This was really bought home after we visited a German War Cemetery. Such an extreme contrast in their appoarch to design, up keep and general feel of the place.
The cemetery that really hit home was the Pheasant Wood Military Cemetery.  This cemetery was created in January 2010 to welcome the bodies of 249 soliders found in two mass graves by Pheasant Wood.  Many of our boys were lost, were unrecognisable and so were never named. No trace of them , no closure for many families. Mothers who never knew where their son was buried, wives who could not have a place to visit to grieve.
This cemetry came about when in 2007, a passionate historian Jean-Mareie Bailleul realised after researching German archives that two mass graves were buried close to Pheasant Wood. He contacted Australian historians, who subsequently claimed the discovery as their own. In 2009, the graves were exhumed and DNA testing on buckles, buttons, press-studs and fragments of fabric enabled 250 of the bodies to be identified. Of these 205 were Australians - of which 96 could be identified by name- and three were idenified as British. In April 2013, a further five Aussie soliders were identified and efforts to name more continue.
What really hits home are the messages families put onto the head stones.
Lest We Forget.

Australian Memorial Park, this statue is called Cobbers.

In full flight - Proud Aussie's we are.

One of our soliders buried in Pheasant Wood Military Cemetery, please note the families inscription.

Not our hotel here in Cambrai but just down the road.

This is "home" for the 21st and 22nd April.

Tyne Cot Cemetery - World's largest Commonwealth war grave cemetery. The sight of 11.954 unifom graves stretching into the distance is humbling.

 

20 April - In Bruges

On the road again!  This time to the picturesque Belgian city of Bruges.  Re-introduced to many people by the 'dark' movie comedy of Colin Farrel ... appropriately titled "In Bruges".

It was an hour or so drive from Bailleul.  Some back roads and mostly motorways.

The heart of Bruges is the medieval centre of the town.  In the 15th and 16th centuries Bruges had become an economic hub and gateway for Europe. Bruges then fell foul of the global economy.  The hub shifted and Bruges slipped backwards.

The centre is compromised of a number of town squares (some are triangular!) and intermingled with a canal system.  Bruges has been referred to as the Venice of the North.  It seemed that on every other corner was a chocolatier, and on the complementary corner was a Belgian lace shop.  In between chocolatiers and lace makers were beer brewers.  There were some town hall type buildings and the odd church.

One particular church (the Church of Notre Dame) houses the Michelangelo statue of the Madonna and Child.  This statue (or a replica, I think) made an appearance in the movie The Monuments Men.  SPOILER ALERT do not read further if you have not seem TMM and intend watching it  [Hugh Bonneville (of Downton Abbey fame) plays Donald Jeffries who is a conflicted British artist. He saves the Madonna and Child from the evil nazis but loses his life in doing so].  In the church was an acknowledgement to General Eisenhower for returning the statue.  The statue had been acquired by the French (ie 'pinched') in 1816.  The Nazis then pinched the statue in 1940 and at some stage moved it to a salt mine in Austria. Eisenhower's team of monuments men recovered the artwork.

We took a boat trip on the canals which was a good way to get an overview of the centre. Yes, we did buy some Belgian chocolate.  Do not expect to see any of it!  Sorry!

19 April - Ypres/Ieper, Belgium

We started with a very good plan!

But the plan was derailed by an excellent, amazing, wonderful museum. 
(Yes, I did write 'museum'!)

The 'In Flanders Field' Museum is in the Lakenhalle building of Ieper (sometimes spelled Ypres).  The museum is not large but the exhibits are interesting and engaging.  Interesting: a local group of battlefield archeologists recently found an Allied tunnel complex - they were able to salvage weapons, munitions and equipment.  some of it had been underwater but had not corroded that much in a 100 years; displays of what a soldier wore and carried - French, Commonwealth, Belgian and German; a special exhibit on the first uses of chlorine gas.  Engaging: throughout the museum were video stories, with actors role playing a wide range of characters - soldiers and officers of both sides, nurses and doctors, and civilians.  These role plays were very well done!

Lakenhalle

A Commonwealth soldier's kit... not all wore kilts of course!

In the original plan we had estimated a couple of hours for the museum.  That blew out to 4+ Hours when you include going up into the bell tower of Lakenhalle.  The view from the bell tower gave you a true sense of how much could be seen from higher ground... and why such ground became so important during the war. An odd thing happened while we were atop the tower:  another tourist tripped and fell, he hit his head pretty hard on the stone wall.  We hepled him to his feet and gave him some water. He was trembling and still in a low level of shock.  So we walked him down the 230+ stairs to his friends at the bottom.  Why odd? He was from Germany.  Having been through the museum... it was just seemed odd but right to help him.

The view rom the bell tower.

Stan checks out the view.

After the now usual 'late lunch' we walked to the Menin Gate which was only 300 metres from Lakenhalle.  This is the famed (or infamous) gate through which hundreds of thousands of allied soldiers marched.  Many were never to return (as portrayed in William Longstaff painting).

Menin Gate: Almost 60,000 names of Commonwealth soldiers who have no known burial place are listed on the gate's walls.

The Seabrook Brothers (17th Ban AIF): these two brothers were killed by the one shell. There younger brother, serving in the same battalion, was shot later that day. He was evacuated to an aid post where he later died. For Mrs Seabrook, she lost her three boys within a 24+ hour period.  How do you even begin to deal with such grief.

By this time we decided that we would stay in Ieper and see other sights rather than rush through our original plan.  One of the key events that we had planned on doing was to witness the Ieper Buglers playing the Last Post under the Menin Gate.  The Firemen of Ieper having been paying this tribute to the fallen since July, 1928.  There was a brief period when it was not done (1939-45).

The other sites included a walk along the 17th century ramparts and a visit to the Ramparts Commonwealth War Cemetary.  There is something poignant about a war cemetary: the sameness of the white headstones, the youth of those interned, the lost futures and the grief of those left behind (so easily felt through the words chosen to mark their love one's grave).

A quiet walk back to the Ieper town center was next and a search for a dinner venue!  Then it was approaching 19:30 (7:30 pm), so time to move to the Gate for the ceremony.  There were quite a few people there, including a school group from Collie State High in WA.  They layed a wreath and said the ode. 

At20:00 the Buglers (four of them) played the Last Post and the sound reverbrated in the cavern of the gate (archway).  Apart for the lilting tune, you could of heard a pin drop (probably 300-400 people were in attendance).  Lest we forget!

The Buglers at 2000 Hours.

Lastly, a nice drive through the countryside to our hotel in Bailleuel and the day was done.

On the road again .........

Our adventure continues.
Our first McDonald breakfast, simple, close, somewhat similiar and cheap. For 5 Euros you could choose 1 drink - tea/coffee/hot chocolate, two breakfast selections:  I tried the McGriddles and bacon and beef burger and lastly a juice- apple/orange and some apple slices. The McGriddles were like a cinnamon laced pancake - very tasty.
Full tummies it was time to explore the town of Abbeville.

 Abbeville was a small quaint town that has an extremely old church. It had been damaged in 1940 during some bombing.  It is a classic gothic style church. The streets were decorated with lots of bunting and small shops.  The town square was a hive of activity!









We were very strong willed as we stood drooling outside the patisserie/s - full of delicious "healthy" options.


The weather was still clear blue skies, although it has certainly got a whole lot cooler.  The wind was the biggest contributor to 'chill factor'.  Thank goodness for a car with heating.











Next it was time for more map reading before we left for our next stop of Calais. We ventured out into the cold and blowy weather as we explored our new stop.

A large steeple drew us to what appeared to be a church.

It was in fact the city hall: very large, grand and contained some beautiful lead light windows. While we were there we got to see several weddings. Today was a quiet day as they were only doing 15 weddings. In summer they do a wedding every 15 minutes. It seemed to operate as follows: Lots of car horns beeping on approach to city hall. The wedding cars are decorated with ribbons and a huge bunch of flowers on the bonnet. The bride gets out - gets adjusted by the wind, smiles for the camera - goes inside.
Up stairs one room is operating for the civil service. In go the guests, the bride, a few minutes later they depart and it happens all over again.

Bridal group leaving ..... next.

Next stop Dunkirk. This was a feat in navigtion and driving skills.  It took us somtime before we arrived at a large open, windy, cold beach. Across the English Chanel is England. This beach was the scene for the evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force in May 1940. Almost 400,000 soliders were evacuated using local British fisherman/boat owners who answered the call from Winston Churchill to travel across the chanel and rescue the boys.  Just look at the two pictures below to get a feeling of the scale of the operation. Many, many young boys and men failed to return home to England. The Germans air force frequently bombed and strafed the beach.

As it appeared in May 1940

We finished the day in Bailleul.  This is a smaller provincial town and there are far fewer English speakers.  Ordering dinner was a challenge.  However, we all did very well... the food was delightful

17 Avril

Time to depart Paris!

A short Metro trip to the friendly people at Hertz.  Of course, it was a Citroen... ironically, citron = lemon in French. Strange!

Peter took the wheel first and ventured into the Parisienne traffic.  Such bravery! or just foolery?

No real dramas initially... a couple of motorcyclists attempted suicide by cutting in front of our car. They appeared to change their minds at the last moment.  Phew!  Then the drama... ta da... a Toll Booth!  Almost instinctively we lined up on the wrong toll booth.  We had to reverse out of the gate and cut across 2-3 lanes to find a booth that accepted cash.  The reversing was a little challenging because the Citroen had some strange sort of combination lock that had to be solved to get the car into 'reverse'. No pressure!

Then it was onto the open roads. Firstly 110 kph speed limit and then 130!  Sitting comfortably on 135, we were still being passed! The open road was without any events.  Then evil loomed... another toll booth!  Having enjoyed the last experience of solving the reverse gear combination and reversing into traffic that seemed to be exiting 'light speed'... yes, wrong @#$%!!! toll booth again!! Reverse, turn right, cut across 3-4 lanes.  So much *&^%!!! fun!

Open roads again, and looking for the town of Vernon and the smaller village of Giverny (Monet's village).  Once we left the motorway a new challenge emerged... the roundabout.  It was quickly determined that aggression and a no hesitation were the best ways to approach roundabouts (and terrorise the odd French driver!). 


Navigation was sound but frequently hindered by the confused and unhelpful advice from those in the back seat.  It was a miracle that they could come up for breath from the passionate conversation on what is wrong with education in Queensland.  Comments such as "I think we are going in the wrong direction" were tollay unhindered by fact, logic or reference to maps or signs.  Notwithstanding such valued advice, we found our way to Monet's Garden.

The garden was simply beautiful!  The array and mixture of colours would compel anyone to commit paint to canvas.  Monet's talent was to capture the beauty.  Some of his most famous paintings are of his garden and the lilly pond.  The picture below can only portray some of the beauty!

After a bite to eat, it was time to venture onto French roads again.  Fortunately, no further advice or assistance was provided from the back seat. Phew!  Given that stroke of fortune, we made good time in our travel to Abbeville in the Somme Valley.  The drive took us through beautiful rural countryside that was dotted with walled chateaus and the occassional Castle.