Day 20 & 21

Day 20 in Cambrai and Surrounds

A leisurely start and off into the local coutryside in search of 'Deborah'.  Deborah is/was a British Mark IV tank that was destroyed in the battle of Cambrai (the first large scale tank offensive 476 allied tanks were involved). Deborah (officially tank D51) was knocked out of action by German artillery.  The British buried the tank, presumbably so the Germans could use what was left! 70+ years later and enthusiastic Frenchman went in search of D51... and found her! Voila!!  So Deborah was supposed to be housed in the town of Fesquieres (home town of said enthusiastic Frenchman).  We drove around a bit, we visited several Commonwealth cemetries, and we visited a Battle of Cambrai information site.

We were determined to find Deborah!.  We drove through all the streets of Flesquieres (of which there are about six... maybe seven at the outside).  Then we found the shed with a sign about Deb, we were close, real close.

But horror of horrors, the above said enthusiastic Frenchman has to maintain his day job and can only do 'show and tell' by appointment!! Buggar!  Anyway the search was a little fun.

We sat in the French countryside and had a snack... Baguette, ham and cheese... of course!

Cambrai - explained

Back into Cambrai and a bit of a look around.  Cambrai did not appears to suffer the levels of destruction that occurred elsewhere on the front.  It is a nice regional city with some ancient history.

Day 21 A Moving Day

Today we moved into the region known as the Somme.  On our way we visited some interesting sites around Arras.  Unlike Cambrai, Arras suffered total destruction.

We encountered another German war cemetary.  This was a little different to the others.  Crucifix grave markers indicated where four German soldiers were buried.  One of the twisted ironies was that some of the grave markers were not crosses.  These were where German Jewish soldiers were buried.

Neuville-St Vaast

We travelled onto the largest French war cemetary.  On home soil the French have built a fitting tribute to the 100's of thousands who died in the war.

French National War Cemetary

Next to the cemetary was a private museum.  The proprietor had made an effort to build trenchlines so people could experience what it would have been like.  It was good that he tried but it appeared the money and/or the enthusiam had dried up.  Sadly so, because the idea was brilliant.

Then into Arras, to find the Office of Tourism and get directions to the Carriere Wellington (Wellington Quarry).  This is a little known part of the war... under Arras during the 16/17th century limestone was mined.  The practice ceased for a hundred years and  a bright spark came up with the idea to surprise the Germans by hiding some soldiers and popping out and an inconvenient time. Most clever, here, here!

Anyway, some Kiwi Engineers (formerly coal/gold miners) took on the task of connecting the underground quarries.  They dug a large part of the 19 kilomentres of tunnels that connected the quarries.  Eventually the British were able 'hide' 24,000 troops in the tunnels and quarries.  In the Battle of Arras on 10 April 1917, the 24,000 soldiers did indeed pop out near Jerry and given a hell of a surprise.  Over half were killed or wounded for gains that were not consolidated or exploited.

Some of the Tunnel dug by the Kiwis

Then 'on the road again' to Villers Bretonneux.  We arrived in the evening, the sun was still blazing.
The Memorial at VB stands atop a ridge line.  It is a towering monument that can be seen from several kilometeres away.  I think we all got goosebumps... this was the goal of our travels, to be at VB on ANZAC Day.  Preparations were underway, some distracting (like media gear and chairs all laid out) and some was beautiful.  At each grave marker was an Australian flag, or a Union Jack, or a Canadian flag or the French rememberance flag (a blue poppy): for Australian soldiers, British soldiers, Canadian soldiers and 'Unknown Soldiers of the Great War'.

We then travelled into VB.  Wow, there were Australian flags everywhere, replica kangaroos, signs of welcome to Australians, a local restaurant offering a 'mixed grill' (you guessed it: lamb chops, sausages, bacon etc).  I don't think any Australian could have felt more welcomed!

Then to the hotel!  There is a speed bump story but I am not going to tell it!